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Mumbai - City of spices, washer men, oh, and the circle of death

Mumbai, you mysterious city you, because of you I will never look at spices the same way again!  We got to go to a market and watch how spices are made.  I mean- really MADE.  It was incredible!!!  The local women all have their own "secret spice recipes" handed down from their mothers.  They collect all of ingredients they need - some sort of red pepper (there are many different varities), which kind of garlic, pepper, onion, tumeric, ginger, and on and on...  They bring it all to a shop like the one we went to, where men ROAST IT all (with a bit of oil) in a big open metal pot over a fire.  Then they lay out the roasted spices on a burlap bag and put them in a long queue for GRINDING.  Only, it is not grinding really, I guess it is mashing, or masticating.  Young men take the huge amounts of roasted ingredients, dump them in a hopper, and they fall into very old machines that have large, heavy pieces that pound down over and over a...